Brisket-A-Go-Go

Sometimes serendipity is just too, well, serendipitous.

Take our monthly Gay List Daily subscriber mixers. We usually approach our favorite places and ask if they’d like to host a party for our readers. And with the exception of our plea to the Taj Mahal for open bar and male strippers, everyone has accepted our request.

But this month, we were contacted by Cowboy Chow in Deep Ellum because they’d heard about our parties and wanted to host one. We were thrilled, but we hadn’t been there in more than a year and didn’t want to give our approval until we knew it was up to our high-falutin’ standards.

So we ventured back to the restaurant and fell in love all over again. See, Serendipity in action. Minus John Cusack.

Well, you’ll be happy to know that this place should be one of your new go-to restaurants when you get a hankerin’ for some good, down-home cooking. Oh sorry, cookin’.

The key player here is brisket, which features prominently in no fewer than eight entrees. But that’s ok, because it’s some damn fine brisket. Hell, we even think they sneak it into their cookies and iced tea and just don’t tell us. Because like Ranch Dressing or bacon, everything’s better with brisket.

Start with an appetizer of the non-brisket variety (pace yourself). Fried Green Tomato Lollipops are insane. And only a buck apiece. And if you’re feeling lucky, bet your appetizer with the server. You each get a card, high card wins. If you win, your appetizer is free. If the server wins, you pay double.

Sure, it’s a gamble, but a chance at free nachos could be just what Las Vegas needs to start attracting the tourists and convention business again!

Our favorite entrée is the Mash Tater Parfait, which arrives in a Mason Jar and a big ol’ spoon. Layered inside are brisket (natch), mash taters, cowboy caviar (black beans and corn), cheddar cheese and fried tortilla strips. It’s comfort food that looks like an edible version of those baby-food-jar sand sculptures we made back in Vacation Bible School.

For something a little different than just your everyday brisket, they offer a leaner, healthier buffalo brisket that’s available in signature tacos, Caesar salads or grilled cheese sandwiches. It’s as versatile as it is lower in fat.

But Cowboy Chow is about more than just the grub. They take great pride (and a whimsical sense of humor) in creating their bar menu. For beer, you can’t get much more down-to-earth than a $2 16-ounce can of Pabst Blue Ribbon. As Obama might say, “Yes We Can. No We Bottle.” (At least that’s what he’d say if he had grammar as bad as ours.)

But it’s the house-infused liquors that immediately caught our attention. During the course of one meal, we sampled vanilla-infused bourbon (great with Mexican Coca-Cola), a margarita made with prickly-pear-infused tequila (and another with serrano-chili-infused tequila), but it was the bacon-infused bourbon with a Pabst Blue Ribbon chaser that made us laugh out loud at the absurd deliciousness of the whole thing.

We ended the evening with a Homemade Marshmallow & Brownie S’more. The brownie was great. The homemade marshmallow, fantastic. But how about that scoop of fried vanilla ice cream rolled in graham crackers as well as regular and cocoa Rice Krispies? It’s way too early to be craving the State Fair.

Thankfully, Cowboy Chow is here to fill the void.

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